Can I Use 24V on 12V Power Wheels? Safety, Cost, & Risks Explained

If you’re wondering whether you can put a 24-volt battery into a 12-volt Power Wheels (kids’ ride-on car), the short answer is technically yes - but it’s generally not recommended. While a 24V battery can boost speed and power, it also carries serious risks of damaging the toy or creating safety hazards. Below, we break down the differences, reasons, risks, and proper steps to consider before attempting a 24V upgrade on a 12V Power Wheels.

What’s the Difference Between 12V and 24V Power Wheels?

Voltage (V) refers to the electrical pressure that powers the ride-on’s motor. A 24V system uses twice the voltage of a 12V system, which means it has two 12V battery cells connected in series (effectively “stacked together”). This higher voltage can deliver more power.

Key differences include:

• A 24V ride-on can run faster than a 12V. Typical 12V models have top speeds around 3 - 5 mph, whereas 24V models can reach about 5 - 8 mph under similar conditions. The higher voltage also gives better torque for climbing inclines and driving on grass or rough terrain.

• 24V setup usually yields longer playtime before recharging.

• Generally, 24V ride-on toys are built larger and heavier. A 12V toy is usually a smaller vehicle, suited for younger children, whereas 24V models are meant for bigger, off-road style ride-ons.

• A 24V battery takes longer to charge (often 10 - 18 hours) compared to ~8 - 12 hours for a 12V battery.

The “V” difference means a lot more than just speed - it affects the entire design of the toy. Using a 24V battery in a toy designed for 12V means pushing everything beyond its intended limits. The manufacturer’s manual will typically warn against using a higher voltage because of these differences (and potential damage).

Why Would Parents Consider Upgrading to 24V?

Despite the risks (which we’ll cover next), many parents or hobbyists toy with the idea of a 24V upgrade for their child’s 12V ride-on. The appeal mostly comes from the performance boost.

The most obvious reason is to make the car go faster. An upgrade to 24V can significantly increase the vehicle’s top speed, which can be exciting for older kids who have outgrown the tame pace of a 12V car. That extra voltage can turn a slow cruiser into a zippier ride (within reason - you might see an increase of a few mph in speed).

A 24V system provides more torque. This helps the ride-on climb inclines more easily and tackle rough terrain without getting stuck. Parents consider this if the 12V vehicle struggles on their lawn or driveway slope. The 24V gives the motors extra oomph to handle off-road conditions better.

Upgrading often involves using batteries with higher capacity. This means the car can potentially run longer between charges. As noted, 24V setups often yield longer play sessions (for example, stretching ~1 hour of continuous run to closer to 1.5 - 2 hours). Fewer recharge interruptions can be a plus for active kids.

Higher voltage can sometimes mean the system runs a bit more efficiently (less heat per unit power) and leaves headroom for powering extras like lights or an upgraded stereo. One guide notes that 24V systems generate less heat buildup and can power accessories more effectively than 12V. This means less strain when adding small accessories (like LED lights or a fan), although the core motor and wiring still take the brunt of the load.

While these benefits sound great, it’s important to stress that they come at a cost. The toy wasn’t built for this extra power, so you must weigh these perks against the risks and required modifications. In the next section, we’ll detail the risks of putting a 24V battery into a 12V Power Wheels.

What Are the Risks of Using a 24V Battery in a 12V Power Wheels?

Before you slap in a 24V battery, understand the potential damage and dangers. Converting a 12V ride-on to 24V is not as simple as dropping in a new battery - it can burn out components and even create safety hazards. Here are the key risks and why experts often do NOT recommend this swap:

• Burned-Out Motor: The stock 12V motor is not built for 24V. Doubling the voltage can drive the motor far beyond its rated RPM. This leads to excessive heat, wear, and potentially motor failure. In fact, experienced modders note that typical 12V motors (often “550” size motors) will “usually not last a day” if run at 24V. Overvolting can cause the motor’s internal brushes or windings to burn out quickly, leaving you with a dead motor (or one that smells like burnt electronics).

• Melted Wires or Circuitry: The wiring and control electronics in a 12V Power Wheels are rated only for 12V and a certain current. A 24V battery can push much higher current through the system, especially under load, generating heat. This can melt insulation off wires or even burn the circuit board (motherboard) that controls the car. There’s a real risk of smoke or fire if the wiring overheats or shorts out. (Notably, Fisher-Price’s 12V ride-ons were once recalled to add better fuses and connectors to prevent overheating even at 12V - so at 24V, the danger is magnified).

• Stripped Gears and Mechanical Stress: The sudden jolt of double voltage can strip the plastic gears in the gearbox. Power Wheels use plastic gear transmissions that were fine for 12V speeds. At 24V, the gears spin much faster and can break teeth under the higher stress. Additionally, with no clutch in the system to buffer torque, the extra power slams the drivetrain harder, potentially snapping drive components. The ride-on’s frame and axles also experience greater stress (e.g., minor chassis weaknesses can turn into critical failures when speed is increased).

• Brake and Control Issues: Most ride-ons stop when the pedal is released, using motor resistance as a brake. At higher speed, stopping distance will be longer. Also, if the original foot pedal or electronic speed controller was just rated for 12V, it might malfunction at 24V (potentially getting stuck “on” or failing). In one case, an 18V model had a recall because the pedal switch contacts could weld together - a risk that could be more likely at higher voltage. Losing the ability to stop or control speed properly is a serious safety hazard for a child.

• Void Warranty and Safety Compliance: Any manufacturer warranty will be void if you modify the vehicle’s voltage. Additionally, the toy will no longer meet safety certifications (like it was tested for fire safety and stability at 12V, not 24V). You’re essentially on your own if something goes wrong. For instance, a 24V conversion could create a hazard that the original design safeguards (fuses, speed limits) can’t handle, and neither the maker nor regulators have approved that configuration. This liability and safety risk cannot be understated.

• General Safety Concerns: A souped-up Power Wheels can surprise an unprepared child. The jump in speed and power might be too much for a young kid to handle safely, leading to crashes or tip-overs if the child isn’t ready for it. For very young drivers, a 24V ride can be unsafe - that’s why 24V products are usually marketed for older kids (often age 6 or 7+). Always consider the child’s age and skill: one guide suggests stick to 12V for younger kids and reserve 24V for older, experienced ones.

In summary, simply using a 24V battery in a 12V Power Wheels without other changes is asking for trouble. You risk frying the motor and electronics, damaging the toy, and possibly causing a fire or injury. It’s technically possible to do, but very much “at your own risk” - which is why experts say don’t do it unless you’re prepared to upgrade many other parts, as we discuss next.

How Can You Safely Upgrade a 12V Power Wheels to 24V (If You Insist)?

If you’re still determined to convert your 12V ride-on to 24V, you need to do it the right way to mitigate the risks. That means essentially upgrading the toy to handle 24V rather than just swapping the battery. Here are the key steps and precautions for a safer 24V conversion:

Two 12V batteries wired in series (positive to negative) will output ~24 volts (as the multimeter shows ~25.6V). This is how you’d configure a 24V supply, but simply doing this isn’t enough - other components must be upgraded for safety.

1. Use Two Matching 12V Batteries in Series: The common method to get 24V is connecting two 12V batteries in series (connect the positive of one battery to the negative of the other). This yields 24V across the free positive and negative terminals. Ensure both batteries are the same type, capacity, and age for balanced performance (two identical sealed lead-acid batteries are typical). Do not mix different battery types. You will also need a proper 24V charger, since the old 12V charger won’t work on a 24V system.

2. Upgrade the Motors: The stock motor should be replaced with one rated for 18 - 24V operation. Many hobbyists use 775-size upgraded motors that can run at 24V reliably. High-performance motors built for ride-ons will handle the voltage and deliver the speed without burning up immediately. This is a critical step - if you leave the original 12V motor in place, it will likely burn out very fast at 24V.

3. Strengthen the Gearbox (or Be Gentle): Consider upgrading to hardened gears or a gearbox kit if available for your model. Some aftermarket kits offer metal gears. If not, be aware that sudden acceleration can shred plastic gears. You might need to teach the child to accelerate gradually (if using a variable pedal) to preserve the gears, or install a soft-start module to ramp up the power more slowly (these modules can limit the initial jolt to protect the drivetrain).

4. Rewire with Thicker Gauge and Add Fuses: Replace or augment the existing wiring with higher gauge (thicker) wires that can carry the increased current without overheating. It’s recommended to use automotive-grade wire and secure connections (solder or high-quality connectors). Importantly, insert an appropriate fuse or circuit breaker in line with the battery. For 24V, a fuse around 40A - 50A is commonly used as a safety measure. This fuse will blow if the current spikes dangerously, helping prevent fires. Also, insulate all connections carefully and ensure polarity (+/−) is correct - reverse polarity can destroy electronics instantly.

5. Address the Electronics and Accessories: If the car has a control board (for remote control receiver, lights, music, etc.), that board is likely 12V-specific. You must either install a DC-DC converter to step down 24V to 12V for those electronics, or upgrade the board to a 24V-compatible one. Skipping this can result in fried circuits for lights or remote functions. In some DIY cases, people bypass the stock electronics entirely and wire the motors directly to a foot pedal or an aftermarket speed controller that can handle 24V. Unless you’re experienced, this part can be complex - which is why many suggest getting professional help for the conversion.

6. Upgrade the Control Switches: The throttle pedal switch, forward/reverse shifter, and any high/low speed switches might need upgrading to 24V-rated components. Stock switches can overheat or weld together at higher voltage/current. Replacing them with automotive relays or heavy-duty switches can ensure they don’t fail. Similarly, any electronic speed controller (ESC) in the toy would need to be replaced with one rated for 24V if present.

7. Safety Gear and Testing: When working on the upgrade, wear protective gear (gloves, eye protection) because you’re dealing with higher voltage and sparks can happen if you accidentally short wires. Once the conversion is done, test the vehicle without a child in it. Check that the motors run smoothly, wires do not get hot, and the fuse doesn’t blow immediately. Go for a gentle test drive (with an adult controlling if possible or the car wheels off the ground) to ensure everything functions correctly at 24V.

As you can see, a proper 24V upgrade is essentially a major modification - you’re almost rebuilding the electrical system of the ride-on. It might be worth consulting or hiring a professional who has experience with ride-on mods if you’re not confident, because mistakes can be costly or dangerous. Do not attempt this casually. Skipping any of the above upgrades could result in the problems mentioned (burnt motor, melted wires, etc.). Proceed with caution and at your own risk.

How Much Does a 24V Conversion Cost?

Upgrading from 12V to 24V is not only about effort - it also comes with a monetary cost. Before you dive in, consider whether the upgrade is cost-effective compared to buying a new 24V ride-on. Here are some cost factors:

• Batteries and Charger: You’ll need two new 12V batteries (or one 24V battery pack) plus a 24V-compatible charger. High-quality 12V 12Ah sealed lead-acid batteries might cost $30 - $50 each. A 24V charger can be another $20 - $40. So, battery+charger could be in the range of $80 - $100 (USD) just to start.

• Motors and Gears: A pair of upgraded 775 motors designed for 24V use can cost around $40 - $60. If you also opt for upgraded gearboxes or metal gears, that could add another $50+. Some sell complete conversion kits (including batteries and motors) for around $150 - $200. These kits simplify shopping but you’re still paying a decent amount.

• Miscellaneous Parts: Don’t forget wiring, connectors, fuses, switches, and possibly a DC-DC converter for accessories. These might sum up to another $20 - $50 in bits and pieces (wires, fuse holders, connectors, etc.). Little things like a fuse holder and 40A fuse, or heavier gauge wire, do add to the cost.

• Labor or Professional Help: If you’re not doing it yourself, labor can be significant. A knowledgeable hobbyist or technician might charge for an hour or two of work. Even if doing it yourself, value your time - it could take several hours of tinkering and testing. RiiRoo’s guide estimated a DIY parts total of £100 - £200 (about $130 - $260), and an additional £40 - £80 if you pay someone to install it.

• Potential Repairs: Keep in mind, if something goes wrong (say you fry the electronics or burn a motor prematurely), you might have to spend more to fix or replace those. There’s a risk of sunk costs if the project doesn’t go smoothly.

When you add it up, a conversion could easily cost a couple of hundred dollars in total. Meanwhile, a brand new 24V ride-on toy might cost on the order of $300 - $600, depending on the model. If your current 12V car was, say, $250 new, sinking an additional $200 into mods (and lots of effort) might not be the best value - especially if the result is uncertain.

Is Upgrading to 24V Worth It? (Conclusion)

Considering all the above, you should ask: Is it worth the effort and risk to use 24V on a 12V Power Wheels? For most people, the answer is no - it’s usually better to stick with the voltage the toy was designed for, or buy a proper 24V ride-on if your child needs more speed. Swapping in a 24V battery is not a simple plug-and-play boost; it’s a gamble that can end up destroying the toy or causing safety issues.

For safety and peace of mind, the recommendation is to keep the original 12V system unless you are willing to do a thorough upgrade of all necessary components. Manufacturers chose 12V for a reason - it’s appropriate for the toy’s construction and the target age group. If your little driver has outgrown the 12V’s performance, consider purchasing a 24V ride-on vehicle that’s built for that power level rather than over-stressing a smaller toy. Modern 24V ride-ons come with the right motors, gearboxes, and safety features to handle the speed.

In summary: While you can rig a 12V Power Wheels to run on 24V and get some short-term thrills, you must do it with extensive modifications and accept the risks. We do not generally advise it for the average parent or child. The upgrade can be fun for hobbyists who know what they’re doing, but if you just want your kid to have a faster ride, the safer route is to buy a 24V model designed for that purpose. Always match the ride-on’s power to your child’s age and skill, and prioritize safety and reliability over speed. After all, the goal is a fun experience for your child - safely. Stick to the proper voltage or consult professionals if you decide to venture into mods, and happy riding!